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Chunky or sleek: What should your sneakers look like?

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There was a time when sneakers didn’t just walk into a room‭ ‬—‭ ‬they stormed in‭. ‬Super-sized soles‭, ‬exaggerated forms‭, ‬and unapologetically loud designs turned sidewalks into runways and feet‭ ‬into fashion billboards‭. ‬If your shoes didn’t weigh two kilos and demand a triple take‭, ‬were you even flexing‭? ‬Balenciaga’s Triple S kicked off the seismic shift‭, ‬Versace’s Chain Reaction brought Greco-Roman bravado to streetwear‭, ‬Louis Vuitton’s Pharell-era LV Trainers looked like they came straight out of a sci-fi sequel‭, ‬and Balmain’s Unicorn sneakers might as well have been prototypes from a galactic fashion lab‭ ‬—‭ ‬part-sneaker‭, ‬part-spaceship‭, ‬and all statement‭. ‬But just as the volume peaked‭, ‬fashion‭ ‬—‭ ‬as it always does‭ ‬—‭ ‬changed course‭. ‬Quietly‭, ‬intentionally‭, ‬and with the sort of elegance that doesn’t need to shout‭.‬

A quick glance at the front row of fashion week or a scroll through Instagram’s most style-savvy feeds reveal it all‭: ‬the sneaker game has shed its bulk‭. ‬Sleek‭, ‬minimalist silhouettes are dominating‭. ‬The once-loud‭, ‬maximalist aesthetic has been softened into something more refined‭, ‬elegant‭, ‬and‭ ‬—‭ ‬dare we say‭ ‬—‭ ‬feminine‭. ‬Not in a gendered sense‭, ‬but in terms of design language‭: ‬delicate lines‭, ‬softer forms‭, ‬and lithe profiles are replacing the hulking shapes of seasons past‭. ‬Miu Miu’s collaboration with New Balance is perhaps the most iconic symbol of this shift‭. ‬Reworking the 530‭ ‬into something that felt like part-sneaker‭, ‬part-ballerina slipper‭, ‬they injected subversive femininity and ballet-flat grace into a world that once equated‭ ‬size with power‭. ‬Loewe followed closely‭, ‬with its Flow Runner and Ballet Runner models that marry featherlight construction with high-craft detailing‭, ‬signaling that the new flex is quiet and considered‭.‬

Even Balenciaga‭ ‬—‭ ‬the very house that led the charge into sneaker maximalism‭ ‬—‭ ‬has scaled back with its Monday sneakers‭. ‬Sleek‭, ‬almost modest‭, ‬the silhouette stands in stark contrast to the behemoth Triple‭ ‬S‭. ‬Where once there was aggressive bulk and oversized branding‭, ‬there’s now restraint‭. ‬The same holds true across the luxury landscape‭. ‬The likes of Dior‭, ‬Hermès‭, ‬and Louis Vuitton are all slimming‭ ‬down‭, ‬creating silhouettes that aren’t about stomping through the streets‭ ‬but gliding through them‭.‬

This shift is more than just aesthetic‭. ‬It’s philosophical‭. ‬Post-pandemic‭, ‬there’s growing consumer appetite for mindfulness‭, ‬versatility‭, ‬and timelessness‭. ‬A sleek sneaker doesn’t scream trend‭ ‬—‭ ‬it signals taste‭. ‬It’s a staple‭, ‬not a seasonal impulse‭. ‬And with the return of Y2K fashion‭, ‬this makes perfect sense‭. ‬The early 2000s weren’t defined by mega soles‭; ‬they celebrated minimalism‭. ‬Slim‭, ‬low-rise sneakers ruled the playground‭ ‬—‭ ‬and now‭, ‬they’re back and ruling the pavements‭.‬

One name has re-emerged as the face of this return‭: ‬adidas Samba‭. ‬A shoe once confined to the shadows of football fields and forgotten closets‭, ‬the Samba is now the epitome of effortless cool‭. ‬Bella Hadid‭, ‬Kendall Jenner‭, ‬and a slew of other street-style icons have cemented its place in the current fashion canon‭. ‬But what really set it off was the Wales Bonner collaboration‭. ‬British designer Grace Wales Bonner has reimagined the adidas Samba with Afro-Caribbean influences and refined detailing‭ ‬—‭ ‬creating editions that sell out instantly and command high resale value‭.‬

This broader move towards sleeker sneakers is also a reflection of the‭ ‬“quiet luxury”‭ ‬moment sweeping through fashion‭. ‬While loud logos and overt branding still have their place‭, ‬there’s a growing appreciation for the understated‭. ‬Hermès has long mastered this with its Day Sneakers‭ ‬—‭ ‬crafted in premium leather with minimal embellishments‭. ‬They whisper wealth‭. ‬Louis Vuitton’s Sneakerinas push this sensibility further‭. ‬These hybrid ballet-sneakers exude couture-level elegance while maintaining sporty‭ ‬roots‭. ‬Bottega Veneta‭, ‬with its Orbit sneakers‭, ‬has created a design that feels like a study in modern architecture‭ ‬—‭ ‬futuristic‭, ‬featherlight‭, ‬and devoid of all excess‭. ‬They’re sneakers for those who don’t need to prove anything‭, ‬because they already know‭.‬

Even Dior’s sneaker playbook is evolving‭. ‬Once known for bolder silhouettes like the B22‭, ‬the maison has pivoted to models like the B27‭, ‬the flatter and sleeker B33‭, ‬and more recently‭, ‬the B01‭ ‬Match Sneaker‭ ‬—‭ ‬a tennis-inspired low-top that oozes minimalism and monochromatic finesse‭. ‬It’s luxe‭, ‬lean‭, ‬and utterly wearable‭. ‬In similar fashion‭, ‬brands like Loro Piana‭ ‬—‭ ‬long known for their whisper-soft cashmeres and walk-on-cloud sensibility‭ ‬—‭ ‬are now reaping the rewards of never having followed the chunky sneaker trend in the first place‭. ‬Their 360‭ ‬Flexy Walk and Week‭-‬End Walk models are having a quiet moment with a whole new generation of buyers‭. ‬The rise of slim silhouettes has made Loro Piana‭, ‬suddenly‭, ‬feel ahead of the curve‭ ‬—‭ ‬without ever changing their pace‭.‬

What unites these designs is a shift in luxury itself‭ ‬—‭ ‬from showy and immediate to thoughtful and enduring‭. ‬And‭, ‬just as importantly‭, ‬they’re far more wearable‭. ‬Chunky sneakers‭, ‬as bold as they were‭, ‬demanded attention and very specific styling‭. ‬Sleek sneakers‭? ‬They’re democratic‭.

What unites these designs is a shift in luxury itself‭ ‬—‭ ‬from showy and immediate to thoughtful and enduring‭. ‬And‭, ‬just as importantly‭, ‬they’re far more wearable‭. ‬Chunky sneakers‭, ‬as bold as they were‭, ‬demanded attention and very specific styling‭. ‬Sleek sneakers‭? ‬They’re democratic‭. ‬They slide under slim tailoring‭, ‬elevate dresses‭, ‬work with jeans‭, ‬and feel equally at home in an airport lounge‭ ‬or a gallery opening‭.‬

This evolution also reflects a maturation of sneaker culture itself‭. ‬New-age sneaker enthusiasts are older‭, ‬wiser‭, ‬and more discerning‭. ‬They still value drops and collaborations‭, ‬but they’re now looking for craftsmanship‭, ‬sustainability‭, ‬and wearability‭. ‬Brands are responding with recycled materials‭, ‬refined lines‭,‬‭ ‬and silhouettes that are not only fashion-forward but also environmentally and socially conscious‭.‬

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It’s no surprise then that archival models are being dusted off and redesigned‭. ‬From Reebok’s Club C to Nike’s Killshot and Puma’s Speedcat‭, ‬the spotlight is now on sleek classics that can be reintroduced with purpose‭. ‬Even performance brands like On Running are betting big on minimalism‭, ‬merging Swiss engineering with city style‭. ‬It’s a sign of the times‭ ‬—‭ ‬the age of visual noise is making space for visual clarity‭.‬

In fashion‭, ‬every shift tells a story‭. ‬The oversized sneaker era was about rebellion‭, ‬irreverence‭, ‬and irony‭. ‬But this new era of slim silhouettes is about evolution‭, ‬intention‭, ‬and identity‭. ‬It’s not about taking up space anymore‭ ‬—‭ ‬it’s about fitting perfectly into your world‭. ‬So no‭, ‬the chunky sneaker isn’t dead‭. ‬It’s just been asked to take a breather while its leaner cousin takes centre stage‭. ‬Sleek is in‭, ‬and it’s here to stay‭.‬

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